Healthy, good cooking that reflects true Tuscan tradition. In fact, for years customs and recipes have been perpetuated that are still loved by its inhabitants and others. Many of the typical dishes originate from the peasant tradition, a poor cuisine prepared with simple ingredients that come mainly from the vegetable gardens and the countryside. Examples are bordatino, a soup with beans and cabbage, pasta and chickpeas, and castagnaccio, prepared with chestnuts. Meat dishes include the typical ' tagliata di mucco pisano' (sliced Pisan beef ) and tripe, while fish dishes include grilled salt cod or stewed stockfish. A unique city, where warmth and conviviality rule.
Here are the 10 things to eat in Pisa and where!
SEE ALSO: What to see in Pisa
1 - Bordatino alla pisana
One of the most typical examples of poor cuisine, made with a few ingredients, including dried or fresh beans, black cabbage and yellow flour, in some cases with the addition of pork rinds, lard or ham. It can also be flavoured with herbs such as nepitella or thyme. It is an ancient dish typically eaten in winter but also enjoyed in other seasons.
The word ' bordatino ' may derive from the fact that the soup, given its simple preparation, was mostly prepared on board ships and fishing boats with the catch of the day; in the countryside, on the other hand, it was prepared with garden vegetables and lard. Tuscan bordatino was therefore prepared according to the products available in the different localities of the region, creating different variations. However, the Pisan recipe par excellence seems to be the vegetarian version of the soup, which is also similar to farinata with cabbage, mostly prepared in the Tuscan hinterland.
Recommended for: lunch, dinner
Average cost: €12.00
Main ingredients: beans, black cabbage, lard, rind, yellow flour
2 - Pasta and chickpeas
A typical first course of Pisan tradition, also prepared with a few simple ingredients: short pasta and whole chickpeas. Variants include chickpea purée with chard or prawns. The origin of pasta and chickpea soup is clearly peasant, since legumes were a very substantial iron-based food that could replace meat, which few could afford to eat.
Over the years, this dish has become more and more sought-after and popular in restaurants all over Italy, thanks to the unique taste of the mellow pulses together with rosemary and pork rigatino (a kind of Tuscan-style bacon), excellent with a good glass of wine.
Recommended for: lunch, dinner
Average cost: €10.00
Main ingredients: short pasta, chickpeas, rosemary, pork rigatino
3 - Pallette
A kind of polenta, a semi-liquid cream made from ground maize flour. It is then served layered with beef and pork ragout, rabbit giblets and mushroom sauce, such as morecci or pioppini. In some versions, leeks are also used. The dish is completed with a little grated Parmesan cheese.
This dish is usually prepared from September onwards.
Recommended for: lunch, dinner
Average cost: 10.00
Main ingredients: beef and pork, mushroom sauce, rabbit giblets
4 - Tripe Pisan style
A dish of popular tradition, very hearty and protein-packed. A dish of veal tripe with tomato sauce.
The tripe in question comes from one of the three stomachs of the beef, the sack and the hundred skins, while the lampredotto is typical of Florentine cuisine. Absolutely a must-try!
Recommended for: lunch, dinner
Average cost: €12.00
Main ingredients: tripe, onion, carrot celery, tomato paste, herbs
5 - Tagliata al mucco pisano
The Pisan cow is the result of a cross between the local Podolica, Chianina and Brown Alpine cows. Its meat is particularly tender and has a strong flavour. The tagliata di manzo was born in the 1980s from an idea of chef Sergio Lorenzi, owner of the 'Sergio' restaurant in Pisa, a sort of re-interpretation of the Florentine steak.
The Pisan cow meat is a quality of meat that has been reared for five centuries in the area near the Migliarno Massaciuccoli and San Rossore Natural Park.
Recommended for: lunch, dinner
Average cost: €15.00
Main ingredients: Pisan cow meat, courgettes, peppers, parsley
6 - Pisan-style stockfish
Another of the dishes belonging to poor Tuscan cuisine. Today, however, it is considered a sought-after dish enjoyed by even the most discerning palates.
The Pisan recipe calls for the stockfish to be stewed with chopped potatoes, more or less spicy, depending on taste.
Recommended for: lunch, dinner
Average cost: €18.00
Main ingredients: stockfish, potatoes, tomatoes, chilli pepper
7 - Cod with Leeks
Salt cod was mainly consumed in the Tuscan hinterland; fresh fish was difficult to find due to poor transportation and unsuitable preservation methods. Salted baccalà was perfectly preserved, many people could afford it and it was usually eaten on Fridays.
In this Tuscan version, salt cod is usually grilled and accompanied by leeks.
Recommended for: lunch, dinner
Average cost: €18.00
Main ingredients: salt cod, leeks, peeled tomatoes
8 - Cantuccini with Vin Santo
Traditionally produced in Tuscany, Vin Santo is a dessert wine made from Trebbiano or Malvasia grapes. There are various theories about the origin of the name. One story tells of a Franciscan friar who in 1348 cured plague victims with a wine with miraculous properties, known as 'santo'. Another theory has it that, during the Council of Florence in 1439, the Greek metropolitan John Bessarion, intent on drinking the wine, said:"This is the wine of Xantos!", leading one to believe that the drink had miraculous properties. The most accredited origin, however, is that of the wine used during mass.
Tuscan cantucci are the perfect dry biscuits to accompany vin Santo; the dough is made from flour, sugar, eggs, almonds and pine nuts. Their elongated shape is given by cutting the loaf diagonally after baking. The name derives from'canto', meaning corner, or from'cantellus' meaning slice of bread.
Recommended for: always
Average cost: 6,00
Main ingredients: wine, flour, sugar, eggs, almonds, pine nuts
9 - Castagnaccio
Photo by Wine Dharma. A chestnut flour cake typical of the Pisa area, prepared with sultanas, walnuts, pine nuts and coarsely chopped rosemary. Although it has several variations in many other regions of Italy, castagnaccio has increasingly become a typical Tuscan dessert.
A cake that originated as a dish for poor peasants who could easily find chestnuts in the countryside. Already in the 16th century, castagnaccio was well known; an Augustinian father, in fact, mentions it in one of his writings. The inventor of the 'castagnaccio' seems to have been the Tuscan Pilade da Lucca, quoted in the 'Commentario delle più notabili e mostruose cose d'Italia et altri luoghi', written by Ortensio Orlano and published in 1553 in Venice. The addition of sultanas, pine nuts and rosemary began in the 19th century and its recipe was exported throughout Italy.
Recommended for: always
Average cost: €5.00
Main ingredients: chestnut flour, sultanas, pine nuts, vinsanto
10 - Torta co' bischeri
A tart prepared throughout Tuscany and especially in Pisa, where it is filled with rice and chocolate and enriched with candied fruit, pine nuts and dried fruit, according to taste.
In Tuscany, the word bischero means 'foolish', 'not very clever', but, in this case, the name of this cake seems to derive from the short pastry spouts that are made on the surface of the cake.
Recommended for: always
Average cost: €5.00
Main ingredients: flour, dark chocolate, pine nuts, sultanas
Where to eat in Pisa: cheap restaurants, typical places and street food
The most touristy restaurants in Pisa are located in the Campo dei Miracoli area, usually more expensive for the picturesque view. The other areas where you can find good typical restaurants are Piazza Dante Alighieri, Piazza del Mercato and Piazza delle Vettovaglie, in the latter area there are numerous bistros, aperitif spots and bars for all price ranges.
Also recommended are the areas of Borgo Stretto and Largo, as far as Bagni di Nerone with typical bars and bistros, also suitable for the young. Other popular areas where you can also eat are Corso Italia (the shopping street), perhaps with more informal bars and street food, Via dei Mille and Piazza dei Cavalieri. For a more international cuisine, Piazza della Pera (or Chiara Gambacorti) with ethnic restaurants and clubs open until late at night is more suitable. Finally, in Via San Martino, you can find more classic restaurants that have also made the history of Pisan cuisine.
1 - Antica Trattoria da Bruno
Description: regional Tuscan cuisine with the best homemade Pisan dishes from both land and sea.
Speciality: salt cod with leeks/stockfish with potatoes
Average price: from €25.00 per person
Address: Via Luigi Bianchi, 12 - Get directions / tel: 050 560818
2 - L'Ostellino
Description: small, informal planineria with street food made with 0 km ingredients and seasonal products
Specialities: chopping board with typical cold cuts and cheeses
Average price: from €10.00 per person
Address: Piazza Felice Cavallotti, 1 - Get directions / tel: 331 9431843
3 - Osteria dei Cavalieri
Description: starred restaurant where tradition is mixed with innovation, with typical Pisan dishes revisited in a gourmet key in a cosy place
Specialities: tripe and sliced beef
Average price: from €35.00 per person
Address: Via S. Frediano, 16 - Get directions / tel: 050 580858
4 - Galileo Restaurant
Description: typical and traditional cuisine based on long cooking and local products in an elegant and distinguished atmosphere
Specialities: tortelli with Tuscan ragu and fresh handmade pasta
Average price: from €15.00 per person
Address: Via S. Martino, 6 - Get directions / tel: 050 28287
5 - Jhonny Paranza Pisa - Alla maniera di Grace
Description: top quality products for exceptional fried fish, fish-based main courses such as tagliata di tonno (tuna steak), but also first courses such as spaghetti allo scoglio.
Speciality: mixed fried fish
Average price: from €10.00 per person
Address: Vicolo del Poschi, 7 - Get directions / tel: 320 7717153
6 - I Porci Comodi
Description: A very small place that is a huge success, both among Pisans and tourists. The menu offers over 50 alternatives for sandwiches, as well as cristini, taglieri and many other street specialities.
Speciality: sandwiches, cristini and chopping boards
Average price: €8.00 per person
Address: Via l'Arancio, 4 - Get directions / Tel. 392 989 3706
7 - Strittendfud
Description: diner just a few steps from the Leaning Tower. With excellent value for money, even considering the location, you can enjoy excellent typical street food. Also worth mentioning are the excellent homemade desserts.
Speciality: Lampredotto sandwich
Average price: €12.00 per person
Address: Via Angelo Galli Tassi, 13 Get directions / Tel. 050 620 3820
8 - Mr. Sgabeo
Description: restaurant specialising in the preparation of'sgabei', a speciality of Lunigiana consisting of leavened, fried and salted bread dough. It offers a wide variety of fillings, both sweet and savoury.
Speciality: Orciano Pisano (Sausage, Pecorino cheese, aubergines and truffle sauce)
Average price: €6.00 per person approx. (€3.50 per sgabeo + €2.50 per drink)
Address: Via Carlo Fedeli, 2 - Get directions / Tel. +39 388 1108779
9 - Primo - Pasta & Street Food
Description: A real paradise for pasta lovers. Customers can choose the pasta format they prefer, the quantity and the desired sauce. Some second courses are also available
Speciality: spaghetti with meatballs
Average price: €9.00 per person
Address: Vicolo del Tidi, 24 Get directions / Tel. 334 349 0099
10 - Restaurant Neccio
Description: Located in the southern part of the city a few kilometres from the centre. In a friendly and cosy atmosphere it is possible to enjoy meat and fish dishes, Pisan specialities and pizzas at excellent value for money.
Speciality: moscardini and cannellini
Average price: €20.00 per person
Address: Via Livornese, 122 Get directions / Tel. 050 530677
11 - Trattoria La Ghiotteria
Description: Traditional trattoria. The first courses are very popular, among them the penne al Jack Daniel's, an innovative and tasty recipe.
Speciality: penne al Jack Daniel's
Average price: €15.00 per person
Address: Vicolo delle Donzelle 9-11 Get directions / Tel. 348 406 4725
12 - Antica Bottega di Pisa
Description: trattoria with a genuine atmosphere and food a few steps from the Tower, in a quiet side street. Everything speaks Tuscan, from the style of the tables to the dishes on the menu, which range from classic crostini to stewed codfish
Speciality: wild boar alla cacciatora
Average price: €18.00
Address: Via Santa Maria, 145 Get directions / Tel. 333 792 3705
13 - Ristoro Pisano
Description: Homemade dishes prepared with local products. The house antipasto includes cold meats, cheeses, crostini and pancakes, the meal is accompanied by excellent Pisan wine.
Speciality: Tagliata di carne
Average price: €12.00 per person
Address: Via Santa Bibbiana, 1 Get directions / Tel. 392 701 6586