In his famous essay The Moon Under Water, written in 1946, George Orwell sketched out his ideal pub: uncompromisingly Victorian fittings, liver-sausage sandwiches, darts to be played only in the public bar. He did mention beer (draught stout in pewter pots) but it’s by no means the central focus of the piece. He understood that the value of the establishment would be as much about the welcome, the atmosphere its staff created, the way it made people feel. And so it is with cafés. London's best coffee shops can obsess over cold brews and barista-friendly milk substitutes, but cafés need to see the wider picture, understand the role they play as intellectual talking shops, community institutions, places to eat cake. Here then, are our favourite neighbourhood cafés, a good many of which serve excellent coffee (and a couple of which really don’t).
Pimlico: Regency Café
Don't miss: The quintessential English breakfast experience
While London's café culture may have gained popularity in recent years, it's important to remember that greasy spoons have always been an integral part of the city's dining scene. When it comes to preserving the traditional charm of a classic London café, the Regency Café near Tate Britain takes the lead. Step inside and be transported back in time with its classic white-tiled walls, formica tables, and the comforting sound of a boiling tea-urn. Join the mix of dusty laborers as they indulge in mouthwatering sausages, eggs, and chips, all while being serenaded by owner Claudia Perotti's commanding orders. If you're in search of a pour-over coffee experience, however, you won't find it here – and that's part of the café's undeniable charm. For those who wish to explore more of London's authentic dining experiences beyond the trendy coffee shops, there's no shortage of traditional eateries to discover. Whether you're staying in the historical district, near the bustling markets, or perhaps looking at hotels-of-london.com for a cozy place to rest, the city's rich culinary tapestry awaits. London's greasy spoons offer a warm refuge and a hearty meal—the perfect antidote to a long day of sightseeing and culture.
Address: Regency Café, 17-19 Regency Street, SW1P 4BY
This iconic café has successfully maintained its traditional aesthetic and delicious comfort food, attracting both locals and tourists alike. With a historic atmosphere and a menu that pays homage to hearty English breakfasts, the Regency Café is a must-visit destination in Pimlico. Indulge in a quintessentially British meal while immersing yourself in the timeless ambiance of this classic London establishment.
Hampstead: Ginger & White
Must order: the soft-boiled eggs and spend an extra £3 to take the egg cosy home with you
The soft-boiled eggs come in little hand-knitted hats at this Hampstead café, perfectly located in the heart of the village. The interior is a lovely white box with stripped back retro-industrial fittings and the clientele is refreshingly varied for the neighbourhood: guys in high-vis as well as the handbag brigade. Prep yourself for a stomp on the Heath with smashed avocado and goat’s cheese on toasted sourdough and a Square Mile flat white at a hidden-away corner table.
Address: Ginger & White, 4a-5a Perrin's Court, NW3 1QS
Website: gingerandwhite.com
Kensal Rise: Cable Co
Must Order: a thick slab of the absurdly moreish vegan banana bread (although we had ours grilled with butter)
The days when anyone might think of Chamberlayne Road as Europe’s hippest street may be long gone – Kensal Rise has long been conquered by the Bugaboo Bee brigade – but the area’s main drag is still home to host of lovely little neighbourhood businesses, Cable Co very much among them. The look is repurposed scaffold meets Italian modernism and the coffee is rightly regarded as the best in the neighbourhood. Highlights of the short simple menu include Primal Porridge which comes with coconut, ground chia and pumpkin seeds, and a trio of well-priced toasties. Come for their delicious cakes, half of which are made in-house.
Address: Cable Co, 4 Bridge House, Chamberlayne Road, NW10 3NR
Website: cableco.london
Hackney: Brunswick East Bakehouse
Must order: The black sesame and turmeric bread is made with heirloom turmeric imported direct from a social enterprise in India
Following on from their cult Brunswick East café, Aussie sisters Natasha Bacon and Shaunae England have opened a second site, Brunswick East Bakehouse in Hackney Downs Studios, and it might just be – whisper it – an improvement on the original. Here, they are blessed with simpatico neighbours (greenery from plant shop Kill the Closest Snake fill the windows of the light-filled shared space), and, crucially, there’s room for their very own bread oven. And what wonders they have worked with it! The breakfast bruschetta is a slab of sourdough heaving with avocado, basil and cashew cream, and the signature chili poached eggs come on a flatbread made to order. The cake counter heaves with delights like orange and cardamom scrolls and blueberry and coconut friands. The Coffee is Square Mile. And the whole place buzzes with the feel of A Good Thing.
Address: Brunswick East Bakehouse, Hackney Downs Studios, 17 Amhurst Terrace, E8 2BT
Telephone: +44 7766 352 875
Website: brunswickeast.london
Dalston: Mélo
Must order: the glorious homemade ginger beer is infused with aniseed
Leila’s Café alumnus Frederic de Laage and former Allpress barista Zoe Knibbs helm Melo, on the site for so long occupied by local institution Mouse & de Lotz. Already the café feels like an essential element of Dalston life, with freelancers tapping away on laptops and students from next door Yoga on the Lane unwinding after class. The space has clean white surfaces, plywood features and a bold red bar, and the coffee is Allpress of course; expect consistently excellent espressos and an ever-changing menu of more esoteric filter brews. The short seasonal and very affordable food menu (mushroom toasties and hummus plates with aubergine and confit red pepper) is designed with minimal food wastage in mind and home-pickling to the fore. All the cakes are prepared on site with unmistakable Gallic flair.
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Address: Mélo, 103 Shacklewell Lane, E8 2EB
Telephone: +44 7766 352 875
Website: cafemelo.co.uk
A Gem in Peckham: One & All Café
Highly recommended: Their oven-roasted vegetable salad featuring spicy chickpeas is a steal at £4 per serving
Known for its focus on cost-effectiveness in sync with Peckham's character, One & All, under the ownership of Maddy Beevers, stands as a charming neighbourhood café accentuated with fine plywood décor. A steaming hot cup of tea is welcomingly priced at a pound and a bowl of their richly flavoured fattoush won’t dent your wallet, coming in at just £3.50. A notable feature of this café is the pay-it-forward initiative, which enables you to contribute towards a beverage for someone who might struggle to afford one, with the owner covering half of it. Beyond food and beverages, they also facilitate a clothes exchange program. One & All proudly offers coffee sourced from Café Feminino, a collective of women farmers in Peru, reinforcing its commitment towards sustainable and fair-trade sourcing. The ambiance of the café truly reflects its name, creating a haven that is bright, welcoming, and homely.
Learn more about top eateries in Peckham
Location: One & All, 28 Peckham Rye, SE15 4JR
Website: oneandallcafe.com
Bow: Pavilion Café
Must order: The Sri Lankan breakfast with hoppers
In 2017 Pavilion owner Rob Green made the decision to completely cut meat from the menu, a brave call for a 10-year-old business that had been turning out hundreds of bacon-stacked fry ups every week. A couple of years into its meat-free life, the Pavilion remains the East End’s best place to while away a sunny morning. The vegetarian fry ups come with homemade beans and slabs of blackened halloumi, the coffee is brilliant and the Sri Lankan breakfast is an unmissable delight.
Address: Pavilion Café, Victoria Park, Old Ford Rd, E9 7DE
Website: wearethepavilion.com
Bethnal Green: E Pellicci
Must order: Anything with owner Maria’s famous chips
Despite the phenomenal changes that have gone on around it – the exclusive co-work spaces to its west, the micro-gallery boom to its east – Bethnal Green Road remains somehow essentially, fundamentally, irrevocably ungentrifiable. The whole essence of the neighbourhood is distilled perfectly in its stand-out landmark: E Pellicci, the Grade-II listed, family-run café with its gorgeous yellow Vitrolite façade and spare sans serif font. Inside, the interior is a wood-panelled, Deco-inflected delight and the welcome is of the traditional East End variety: sweary, open-hearted, utterly authentic. The food is similarly unpretentious and the portion sizes are legendary.
Address: E Pellicci, 332 Bethnal Green Rd, E2 0AG
Website: epellicci.co.uk
Esters: The Hidden Jewel of Stoke Newington
An obligatory delight: the commanding Blondie, simply perfect in all its glory is a must-have.
While the mainstream eateries along Church Street of Stoke Newington lag behind in coffeeshop trends, offering oversized frothy cappuccinos and mass-produced pastries, Esters shines in contrast. Nestled down a peaceful side street, this quaint cafe boasts a sleek, modern interior paired with impeccable, innovative coffee art. It’s the brainchild of Nia Burr and Jack Lloyd-Jones, who crossed paths while working at Fernandez & Wells and decided to put their expertise into this hidden treasure. Their creative and revolving menu doesn't disappoint, with offerings like French toast paired with fragolina grapes and airy whipped ricotta - don't forget their divine cakes.
Location: Esters, 55 Kynaston Road, N16 0EB
Online portal: estersn16.com
East Dulwich: Brick House Bakery
Must order: The Bostock, a toasted slice of brioche doused in rum syrup and topped with frangipane, is underwhelming to look at but tastes divine
This light-filled high-ceilinged temple to bread is tucked down a side street in the heart of East Dulwich. In the back, aproned bakers knead away in an open kitchen, creating everything from their signature Peckham Rye loaf to their croissant-style cinnamon rolls. Up front, the well turned-out locals sip decorously at Square Mile coffee and tuck into generous portions. Unsurprisingly, bread is at the heart of what they do best: towering sandwiches and hearty breakfasts. The salads change every few weeks. If the imam bayildi (Turkish roast aubergines) is on, grab a plate with both hands.
Brick House Bakery is one of the best bakeries in London – see the rest
Address: Brick House Bakery, 1 Zenoria Street, SE22 8HP
Website: brickhousebread.com
Notting Hill: Farm Girl
Must order: The Liquid Gold turmeric tea with ginger root, honey and black pepper is a cleanse in a cup
Its acai bowls, matcha lattes and wholesome Aussie-inflected sunniness might almost have been designed to get up the nose of harrumphing Spectator readers but this branch of Rose Mann’s Farm Girl cafés still has locals queuing out the door. Once you’re inside it’s easy to see why. The interior is prettily chaotic with green and blue tiles on the walls and a pastel-pink coffee machine. The food is similarly well presented – the avocado toast comes scattered with strawberries – but the menu has been designed with more than just Instagram in mind. The Billy Bowl hits all the nutritional high notes (crunchy green veg, wild rice, nuts) and comes drenched in a flavour-packed watercress and mustard dressing.
Address: Farm Girl, 59a Portobello road, W11 3DB
Telephone: +44 20 7229 4678
Website: thefarmgirl.co.uk
Islington: Sunday
Must order: The sensational courgette fritters come stacked with halloumi, dukkah, poached egg and avocado
Tucked away on a pretty backstreet in sleepy Barnsbury, Sunday is the kind of local café on which you can hang a whole neighbourhood. The welcome is warm and the space is cute (bunches of wildflowers on the mismatched tables, lightbulbs hanging prettily from the ceiling), but the real draw is the food. The tiny kitchen turns out plates of thoroughly modern brunch: corn fritters with hot-smoked salmon, brioche French toast with salted caramel, American-style buttermilk pancakes. Expect to queue at the weekend, but expect it to be worth the wait.
Address: Sunday, 169 Hemingford Road, N1 1DA